Rosi Schuster Gruner Veltliner ‘aus den Dörfern’ Burgenland, Austria 2015
Schuster‘s Burgenland is indeed home to Gruner, and this is indeed, the truest, most expressive Gruner I’ve ever had. There are infinite, vibrant layers of minerality, herbs, and texture. But what’s unique is the almost 100% Gruner is accented by a small portion of old vine fruit from one vineyard planted in ‘Gemischter satz.’ This is a very old way of growing, from when making wine was just one aspect of farming. To avoid illness and keep soil healthy, many different varietals were inter-planted, picked, and vinified together. Because these grapes inherently ripen at different times and have many characteristics, the outcome is extreme balance and dimension—a living example of the old sum-of-the-parts is greater than adage, This ultra pure wine is a masterful, impossible to replicate wine. Farmed with biodynamic principles, drink coldish. Unbelievably profound wine!